Morocco Without the Desert: Our Spring Journey Through the Wineries of Benslimane and the Gardens of Oualidia

How the Idea of a Spring Escape to the Moroccan Countryside Was Born

The idea of traveling to Morocco with my parents had been brewing for a long time, but the classic itineraries involving long hours of driving through the Sahara Desert or the bustling energy of Marrakech felt intimidating for my mom and dad. We wanted peace, a relaxed pace, and a mild climate. In the early spring, we decided to discover a completely different side of Morocco—not the touristy gloss of guidebooks, but the rural regions famous for their vineyards and oyster lagoons. Our choice fell on the Benslimane province, nestled in the Atlas foothills far from the noisy coast, and the quiet seaside town of Oualidia.

Preparation was key. Since my parents are used to comfort, instead of typical busy hostels, I searched for secluded traditional guesthouses—riads and eco-villas set among olive groves. We wanted to experience the local flavor without rushing, wake up to birds singing, walk through green hills, and taste local cuisine prepared by locals for locals. We contacted local guides specializing in agritourism in advance and rented a comfortable SUV to stay independent of public transport schedules.

The mood before the trip was filled with anticipation. My mom researched Moroccan ceramics, my dad read about the history of local winemaking, which has been developing here since the French protectorate, and I simply looked forward to spending ten days with my family. The Moroccan spring promised to be mild, blooming, and incredibly green, contrasting sharply with the common image of this arid country.

Day 1. First Glimpse of Benslimane and a Cozy Villa

Our journey began with our arrival in the Benslimane province. This region welcomed us with emerald hills that are covered with a carpet of wildflowers in early spring. The air here is wonderfully clean, with a light scent of pine and eucalyptus. We booked rooms in a small, family-run guesthouse, Villa des Chênes, surrounded by ancient oaks and olive trees. The place turned out to be incredibly peaceful, far away from busy roads.

The owner of the villa, a hospitable Moroccan named Abdel, welcomed us with traditional mint tea and homemade almond and orange blossom cookies. My parents immediately appreciated the slow rhythm of the place. After checking in, we went for an introductory stroll around the area. Neat vineyards stretched out around us, interspersed with pastures where sheep grazed peacefully.

We had lunch right at the villa. Abdel prepared a light salad of fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, and olives, dressed with fragrant, cold-pressed local olive oil, and tender chicken with preserved lemons. In the evening, when the daytime cool settled in, we sat on the terrace for a long time, listening to crickets and discussing our plans for the upcoming days. Sleeping in the quiet of the countryside was absolutely wonderful.

Day 2. Secrets of Moroccan Winemaking at Château Roslane

The morning started with a hearty breakfast: freshly baked msemen flatbreads, homemade honey, goat cheese, and strong coffee. The highlight of our program today was a visit to the famous winemaking estate, Château Roslane, located nearby. Few people know that Morocco produces world-class wines, and the Benslimane region is one of the main centers of this craft.

We booked a private tour of the cellars and vineyards. My father was thrilled by the scale of production and the high-tech processes. We were shown how ancient traditions are combined with modern European equipment. The huge oak barrels where the best red wines are aged made a particularly strong impression.

The tour was followed by a tasting. We tried the famous gray wine (Vin Gris), which is produced uniquely in Morocco. It has a delicate rose-gold tint and a fresh, fruity taste with notes of grapefruit. For lunch at the winery, we were served a traditional beef tagine with prunes and almonds, which paired perfectly with an aged red Cabernet Sauvignon. We spent the evening reading books by the fireplace in the living room of our villa.

Day 3. Walking Through the Oak Forest and Lunch with Local Farmers

We decided to dedicate our third day to nature. Benslimane is famous for its oak forests, which are considered the green lungs of the region. We found a route through a state nature reserve online and set off on a hike. The spring forest looked magical: ancient cork oaks covered in moss, rare wild orchids, and the singing of hundreds of birds. My parents walked at a comfortable pace, enjoying the cool shade.

By noon, we reached a small farm where a pre-arranged lunch was waiting for us. We were hosted by a simple farming family. We communicated using a mix of French, basic Arabic, and gestures, which added a special charm to the trip. The hostess showed my mom how traditional tafnout bread is baked in a wood-fired clay oven.

We were seated around a low, circular table on soft cushions. The lunch consisted of a huge platter of couscous with seven types of vegetables grown right on the farm. The flavor of the fresh vegetables, slow-cooked for several hours, was incredible. For dessert, we were served sweet tangerines picked straight from the branch. We returned home tired but absolutely happy.

Day 4. Heading to the Ocean via Authentic Settat

After saying goodbye to hospitable Benslimane, we set course for the coast toward Oualidia. The road took us through the picturesque agricultural lands of the Chaouia region. Along the way, we decided to make a stop in the city of Settat—a completely non-touristy place where you can see the real, unvarnished life of Moroccans. We parked our car near the main square and headed to the local market.

The Settat market amazed us with its riot of colors and aromas: mountains of spices, fresh herbs, stalls with pottery and leather goods. My dad bargained and bought a beautiful teapot for brewing mint tea for my mom, and soft leather babouche slippers for himself. Nobody here bothered us with aggressive offers, as often happens in Marrakech; everyone was friendly and polite.

We had lunch in an unassuming street cafe where they grilled fresh lamb skewers over hot coals. The meat was served with warm flatbreads and spicy harissa sauce. By evening, we reached Oualidia—a quiet fishing village located on the shores of a picturesque lagoon. We checked into the charming hotel, La Sultana Oualidia, with windows looking out directly onto the calm waters of the lagoon.

Day 5. The Oyster Paradise of Oualidia Lagoon

Morning in Oualidia began with the sound of the surf and the cries of seagulls. The Oualidia lagoon is a unique natural site, protected from the rough waves of the Atlantic Ocean by a rocky barrier. Here, the water is always calm and warm. The pride of this place is its oyster farms, which are considered some of the best in North Africa.

We rented a small wooden boat with a local boatman named Mustapha, who gave us a tour of the lagoon. He explained how oysters are cultivated here and showed us the special underwater cages. The water in the lagoon is so clear that you can see the bottom several meters down. My mom was captivated by the flocks of pink flamingos that migrate here for the winter and still remain in the lagoon in early spring.

Lunch took place at the famous oyster farm, Maison Ostrea II. We sat at a table right by the water. We were served a dozen fresh oysters drizzled with lemon juice and grilled sea bass with garlic sauce. My parents, who had previously been indifferent to seafood, were completely delighted by the freshness and taste of the dishes. We spent the evening walking along the sandy spit during low tide.

Day 6. The Historical Heritage of Safi and Pottery Workshops

On the sixth day, we decided to take a short trip south to the city of Safi, located an hour's drive from Oualidia. Safi is an old port city known for its Portuguese fortress and incredible pottery. We started our walk with a visit to the Kechla fortress, which offers a breathtaking view of the crashing ocean and the port.

Then we headed to the Potters' Hill (Colline des Potiers). Here, you can find dozens of workshops where craftsmen handcraft clay masterpieces using techniques unchanged for centuries. We watched how an elegant vase is born from a shapeless lump of raw clay on a foot-powered wheel. My mom couldn't resist buying several painted plates with the traditional cobalt-blue pattern, which is Safi's signature style.

For lunch, we stopped by a port restaurant where we ordered a traditional dish—fish kefta (sardine meatballs with spices in tomato sauce), cooked in a clay tagine. This simple and satisfying meal was a big hit with my dad. Upon returning to Oualidia, we caught a stunning sunset that painted the lagoon in soft pink and lilac tones.

Day 7. Trekking Along the Rocky Coast and Wild Beaches

We dedicated this day to active outdoor recreation. We decided to explore the coastline north of Oualidia, where ocean waves crash with power against high sandstone cliffs. We found a path along the steep shore and set off. The spring wind from the ocean was cool and refreshing, so our windbreaker jackets came in very handy.

The landscapes here are wild and majestic. From time to time, the trail descended to secluded sandy coves where there wasn't a single soul—just the ocean and the cliffs. In one of these coves, we set up a small picnic, having previously bought fresh bread, cheese, tomatoes, and olives in Oualidia. My parents sat on the warm sand, facing the spring sun, and simply enjoyed the moment.

After walking about seven kilometers, we reached a small fishing village, from where we returned to the hotel by local taxi—an old Mercedes that serves as public transport here. In the evening, we decided to dine at our hotel’s cozy restaurant, where the chef prepared a delicate sea bream fillet with sweet potato purée.

Day 8. Agricultural Market and a Cooking Masterclass

Moroccan cuisine is a true art, and we decided to master a few of its secrets. In the morning, we went to the weekly rural market (souk), which takes place on the outskirts of Oualidia on specific days. It is an incredible sight: farmers from all around bring their goods on donkeys and carts. The noise, the bustle, and the smells of mint, coriander, and fresh hay created an unforgettable atmosphere.

Together with a chef from a local cooperative, we chose the ingredients for our lunch: bunches of fresh herbs, fragrant baby carrots, zucchini, ripe lemons, and spices sold by weight. After the market, we went to the cooperative's open kitchen, where under the guidance of an experienced Moroccan home cook, Fatima, we began preparing our meal.

We learned how to correctly mix spices: cumin, paprika, ginger, and turmeric. Under Fatima's watchful eye, we prepared a lamb tagine with dried apricots and walnuts, as well as zaalook—a traditional Moroccan salad made of roasted eggplants and bell peppers. The lunch we cooked ourselves felt like the most delicious meal of the entire trip. My parents wrote down all the recipes in a notebook.

Day 9. A Relaxing Day in the Lagoon and Salt Pans

We decided to make the second-to-last day of our trip as relaxed as possible. We spent the morning on the lagoon beach, where the water was calm and warm. My dad even gathered the courage to take a swim, although the spring water in the ocean is still quite brisk. We rented kayaks and paddled along the mangroves, watching the herons.

In the afternoon, we went to see the ancient salt pans located near the town. Here, salt is harvested using the traditional method of evaporating seawater in special shallow basins. The landscape looked highly unusual: geometrically perfect pans filled with water of various shades—from soft pink to dazzling white from the crystallized salt.

For dinner, we went to a small, family-run restaurant on a hill, which offered a panoramic view of the entire lagoon and the ocean beyond. We ordered a fried fish and seafood platter served on a huge tray. We watched the sun sink below the horizon, sharing our brightest memories of the trip.

Day 10. Bidding Farewell to Oualidia and Heading Home

And so, our ten-day Moroccan adventure came to an end. We spent the morning of our final day packing our suitcases, which had grown noticeably heavier. Carefully wrapped inside were ceramics from Safi, bottles of fine gray wine from Benslimane, bags of fragrant spices, and, of course, Moroccan olive oil.

Before leaving, we took one last walk along the shores of the lagoon, breathing in the salty ocean air. We stopped by our favorite cafe to drink a farewell cup of strong coffee with cardamom. The owner of the cafe, learning that we were leaving, gave my mom a small bouquet of fresh mint for the road.

We got into our SUV and set off on our return journey, admiring the green spring landscapes of Morocco. This trip exceeded all our expectations. We managed to show my parents a completely different side of this amazing country—calm, hospitable, smelling of the ocean, pine, and fine wine.

The Quiet Luxury of the Moroccan Countryside: Takeaways from Our Family Escape

This spring trip will forever remain in our family memory bank as one of our most heartfelt and harmonious journeys. Morocco revealed itself to us from a completely unexpected angle. It turned out that you can find perfect, European-level service combined with authentic Eastern hospitality if you step off the beaten tourist path.

My parents were thrilled with this style of travel. The lack of rush, staying in cozy, secluded places, the freshest seafood, and excellent wines did their magic—they completely relaxed and recharged. We deeply appreciated the hospitality of the locals in the countryside, their non-intrusive nature, and their sincere willingness to help.

Of course, there were some nuances. For example, traveling through the rural regions of Morocco definitely requires a car and confident driving skills, as countryside roads can be narrow and winding. Knowing basic French also helped tremendously, as communicating with locals in the heartland would have been extremely difficult without it.

We realized that agritourism and exploring wine regions is a fantastic travel format for family trips with parents. It allows you to combine gastronomic pleasures, nature appreciation, and light physical activity. We have already started gently planning our next joint trip for the autumn, and perhaps it will be rural Portugal or the quiet wineries of northern Italy.