Beyond Cancun: Immersing Ourselves in Colonial Oaxaca and Lost Cities

Why Oaxaca: Trading Beaches for History

The idea of heading to Mexico had been brewing between Kirill and me for a long time, but Cancun and the Riviera Maya were off the table from the start. We didn't want to stand in long lines for Chichén Itzá or squeeze onto overcrowded beaches. We were looking for something deeper, more authentic, and less polished. While browsing maps and historical forums, we stumbled upon Oaxaca. This southern region promised to be the place where time stands still between colonial cathedrals and pre-Hispanic ruins. The mild Mexican winter felt like the perfect window: the heat had subsided, and the rainy season was still far off. We chose a format of historical immersion, deciding not just to look at stones, but to feel the spirit of the Zapotec Empire and the colonial era.

Preparation was serious. We didn't just book accommodation; we scouted for authentic hotels in heritage buildings and researched the local cuisine—widely considered the best in the country. Our mood before the start was determined. We knew we’d be walking a lot, trying unusual foods, and perhaps facing language barriers, but that was exactly what we wanted. Our plans included not just archaeological zones, but also markets, artisan workshops, and endless strolls through cobblestone streets. Our expectations were built around a sense of authenticity that is so hard to find in tourist enclaves. We didn't want to be mere tourists; we wanted to become part of this vibrant, bustling world for a week.

Day 1. First Encounters with the Colonial Center

Our journey began with checking into a small boutique hotel right in the historic center of Oaxaca de Juárez. It was an 18th-century building with an interior courtyard where the mornings smelled of fresh coffee and pastries. The sense of history was immediate: massive wooden doors, wrought-iron window grates, and high ceilings. We dropped our bags and immediately set out to catch the city’s rhythm. Our first stop was the Church of Santo Domingo. Its baroque facade against the bright blue sky looked monumental. Inside, the abundance of gold and intricate carvings is literally dazzling. It’s not just a temple; it’s a monument to an era where Spanish influence blended with local traditions.

Lunch happened at 'Los Danzantes,' a spot recommended by connoisseurs. We ordered our first mole—a thick sauce made from numerous ingredients, including chocolate and chili peppers. The flavor was so complex and unfamiliar that we spent a long time discussing every note. In the evening, we simply wandered the streets around the central square—the Zócalo. Life is in full swing here: street musicians, vendors selling fried grasshoppers (chapulines), and families out for a stroll. We stopped at a local coffee shop, Googling which bean variety to bring home, finally settling on a blend from the Pluma Hidalgo region. The evening ended in our hotel patio to the distant sounds of a marimba.

Day 2. The Majesty of Monte Albán

This day was entirely dedicated to history. Early in the morning, we headed to Monte Albán—the ancient Zapotec capital situated on a mountaintop. The view from there is fantastic: the entire city of Oaxaca lies in the palm of your hand, surrounded by mountains. The ruins themselves are striking in their geometry. We walked through the Main Plaza, climbed the North Platform, and examined the famous 'Danzantes' reliefs. This place possesses a powerful energy. We spent nearly five hours there, trying to imagine how life teemed here thousands of years ago. Kirill was constantly checking online maps and historical references to understand the purpose of each structure.

After descending the mountain, we were incredibly hungry. We found a small taqueria nearby where only locals eat. We had tacos al pastor and natural guava juice. Food in such places always turns out to be the tastiest and most honest. Back in the city, we visited the Ethnobotanical Garden at the Santo Domingo monastery. This isn't just a park, but a living collection of the state's flora, landscaped with incredible taste. We spent the evening at a quiet rooftop restaurant, watching the sun set behind the cathedral domes. We discussed how sophisticated Zapotec architecture was and how it contrasts with Spanish Baroque. We slept like logs after walking over twenty kilometers.

Day 3. Tastes and Scents of Oaxaca’s Markets

We decided to make the third day 'gastronomic and everyday.' We headed to the Abastos market—a massive labyrinth where you can find everything from tractor parts to rare spices. This isn't a tourist spot; it's real life. We looked for unique types of chili and the famous Oaxaca cheese, which is rolled into tight balls. We had breakfast right at the market—enchiladas with black mole. It was noisy, smelling of spices, leather, and fruit. We spent a long time choosing mezcal in one of the shops, tasting different varieties from the smooth Espadín to the wild Tobalá. The vendor explained the differences in the distillation process using a mix of Spanish and gestures.

After the market, we visited the Textile Museum. Oaxaca is famous for its fabrics, and the museum's collection amazed us with its fine craftsmanship. We Googled ancient dyeing techniques using natural pigments like cochineal (an insect that produces a brilliant red color). It turned out to be a whole science passed down through generations. Lunch was at 'Casa Oaxaca,' where the chef prepares salsa right in front of you in a stone mortar—a molcajete. The evening was spent in leisurely walks through residential neighborhoods away from the center, looking at graffiti and colorful house facades. We dined on light quesadillas in our hotel's small courtyard while planning the next day's trip.

Day 4. The Frozen Waterfalls of Hierve el Agua

On the fourth day, we rented a car and drove to a natural wonder—Hierve el Agua. These are petrified mineral waterfalls that look like white streams frozen on the cliffs. The road there led through mountain switchbacks and cactus fields. The views were so stunning we wanted to stop at every turn. Arriving at the site, we found natural turquoise pools right on the edge of the cliff. Despite the mild winter, the water was bracing, but we decided to take the plunge. The feeling of swimming in a clear spring on a mountaintop with the valley stretching out before you is unforgettable.

We spent half the day there, hiking the trails around the rocks. We had lunch in a nearby village: simple dishes of black beans, rice, and tortillas baked over an open fire. On the way back, we stopped in the town of Santa María del Tule to see the widest tree in the world—El Tule. It’s a giant cypress over two thousand years old. Its trunk is so wide that even a group of thirty people cannot encircle it. We stood in its shade for a long time, feeling like grains of sand in the face of such antiquity. Back in Oaxaca, we stopped at the bar 'Sabina Sabe' to try mezcal-based cocktails. The night at the hotel was quiet, with only the distant sound of dogs barking.

Day 5. Mitla’s Geometry and Craft Secrets

The fifth day was dedicated to Mitla—another vital archaeological site. Unlike Monte Albán, Mitla is famous for its unique stone mosaics. The walls here are decorated with complex geometric patterns assembled from thousands of small stones without the use of mortar. We spent a long time examining these friezes, trying to decode the symbols hidden within them. Mitla was a religious center, the 'place of the dead,' and this was palpable in the austere architecture and the underground tombs we were allowed to descend into. We Googled the 'greca' technique—the very patterns still repeated in local textiles today.

After Mitla, we stopped in the village of Teotitlán del Valle, home to generations of weavers. We visited a workshop where they showed us the entire rug-making process: from washing the wool with a plant root to dyeing the threads with natural pigments. We couldn't resist buying a small rug with a traditional pattern—it smelled of sheep's wool and smoke. Lunch was in a village cafe, trying tejate—a traditional cocoa and maize drink served in painted gourds. In the evening, back in the city, we just relaxed in the patio, discussing what we’d seen. We had dinner at a small Italian restaurant, wanting a brief change of pace after so many spices. We stayed at the same hotel, which was starting to feel like home.

Day 6. The Soul of Black Pottery in Coyotepec

On the sixth day, we decided to explore the southern outskirts of Oaxaca. Our first stop was San Bartolo Coyotepec, famous for its black pottery (barro negro). We visited the workshop of the legendary Doña Rosa, where we saw how a piece of gray clay is transformed into an elegant vessel with a metallic sheen. It turns out this shine is achieved by polishing the piece with a stone before firing, not by glazing. We spent a couple of hours there watching the masters work. Kirill even tried polishing a small shard himself, though he wasn't nearly as skilled as the professionals. We bought several small figurines as gifts for family.

Next, we headed to San Martín Tilcajete—the village where alebrijes are made. These are brightly colored wooden carvings of fantastic creatures. The scale of the local carvers' imagination is staggering: winged cats, multi-headed dragons, all painted with tiny dots and patterns. We spent a long time walking through the workshops, choosing our 'own' creature. We had lunch at a local cooperative where women were preparing tlayudas—huge crispy tortillas topped with meat, cheese, and vegetables. This dish is considered Oaxaca's signature, and it is truly magnificent. The evening was spent browsing art galleries in the city center. We discovered stunning works by contemporary Mexican artists inspired by ancient myths. We had a late dinner, grabbing take-out tacos and sitting on a bench in Llano Park.

Day 7. Friday Market in Ocotlán

The seventh day fell on a Friday, which meant the big market in the town of Ocotlán de Morelos. We headed there first thing in the morning. The Friday market in Ocotlán is the quintessence of the region's rural life. Farmers from all the surrounding mountains gather here. We watched people bartering for livestock and selling mountains of seeds, flowers, and household goods. One of our goals was to find the workshop of the famous Aguilar sisters, who create unusual clay figurines. Their work is exhibited in museums worldwide, yet they live very simply. We chatted with one of the sisters; it was a very touching and authentic encounter.

We had lunch at the market itself. We found the stall of the famous 'Frida of Ocotlán'—a woman who dresses like Frida Kahlo and cooks incredible traditional dishes. Her kitchen is pure flavor magic. We ate chiles rellenos—stuffed peppers in a light batter. After the market, we visited a 16th-century monastery right there in Ocotlán, which had been recently restored. We returned to Oaxaca de Juárez in the evening feeling a pleasant exhaustion. We decided to treat ourselves to a farewell dinner at one of the city's best restaurants—'Origin.' It was fine dining based on local products: sophisticated, yet preserving all the traditional flavors. We sat for a long time, reminiscing about the details of the past week. We went to bed with a slight sadness that the journey would end tomorrow.

Day 8. Final Strolls and the Road of Meaning

On the morning of the eighth day, we decided not to rush. We simply walked the city streets to breathe in the air one last time, soaked as it was with history and the scent of chocolate. We visited the Museum of Oaxacan Cultures, housed in a former monastery. The gold jewelry from Tomb 7 of Monte Albán is something you must see with your own eyes at least once. The level of skill of those ancient jewelers is simply indescribable. We Googled the casting technology they used, and it seemed incredible for that era. After the museum, we bought several kilos of coffee and chocolate at the 'Mayordomo' shop to take a piece of Oaxaca home with us.

Our last lunch was at a cozy cafe on one of the pedestrian streets. We had squash blossom soup and discussed how quickly the time had flown. Oaxaca turned out to be exactly as we imagined: deep, multifaceted, and absolutely alive. We didn't encounter crowds of tourists in sun hats here; instead, we met sincere people proud of their culture. Before leaving, we stopped by the Church of Santo Domingo one last time, just to sit in silence. We realized that Mexico isn't just the sea; it is, above all, the people and their incredible history that lives in every stone. That evening, we packed our suitcases, carefully cushioning the ceramics and rugs with our clothes. Our hearts felt calm and joyful that the journey had been experienced exactly this way.

Oaxaca’s Colors and Shadows: What Remains in the Heart

Summing up our eight-day marathon through the state of Oaxaca, I can say one thing: it was one of the most meaningful trips of my life. Mexico revealed a completely different side to us. Instead of a predictable resort vacation, we had a real adventure full of discovery and aesthetic delight. What did I like most? Perhaps it was the combination of the majesty of ancient ruins and the simplicity of everyday life. Here, history is not a dusty museum exhibit but a living fabric of reality. The architecture of Monte Albán and Mitla still inspires local artisans, and recipes hundreds of years old are served in the trendiest restaurants.

Of course, there were nuances. The language barrier sometimes made itself known—in the rural areas, not everyone knows English, so our basic Spanish and online translators were working overtime. Oaxacan cuisine is specific: the abundance of spices and unusual ingredients (like those insects) might not suit every stomach, but it worked perfectly for us. In the future, we plan to return to Mexico, but perhaps to explore the state of Chiapas or the lost cities in the jungles of Yucatán. We realized that this country is infinite in its diversity, and Oaxaca was just a beautiful chapter in the long book of our travels. The main takeaway: don't be afraid to go off the beaten path; that’s where the real stories begin.